Cabin love in Copenhagen

55°40'48.5"N 12°35'24.6"E Copenhagen

We’ve always been curious about Copenhagen, so for Christmas the family collectively gifted us flights for a long weekend in the Danish capital and a mate came up trumps with a stay in his summer cabin on the edge of the city!

They warned us the cabin was on the basic side of ‘rustic’.

They failed to mention the beautiful blossom arch from the gate to the door, flowering poppies littering the floor, Gerda the garden knome, the dancing light through the stained glass, the welcome note scrawled on the board in the kitchen, the scandi wool blankets we could pile high on the lawn and lie on the afternoon sun… so content.

An honesty book swap and fresh honey outside the neighbours cabin, utterly charming.

We jumped on the subway and ventured to Nyhavn, recognisable for its old painted houses in rows along the historic port, got a cold beer, sat on the docks and watched the sun go down.

Time to seek some dinner, we rounded the corner and bumped into The Union Kitchen; they could accommodate us in a hour and pointed us towards the wine bar across the road. I don’t have to be told twice.

I can’t claim to have found it myself, but Nebbiolo Winebar was a great find! The rather handsome Pugliese waiter offered us a geography and viticulture lesson with every glass, accompanied by nibbles of Manchego.

The Union Kitchen also turned out to be a triumph of a find. Ella from Brisbane was our host and made fantastic suggestions, gin cocktail, meatballs, beetroot salad, truffle chips, we could have happily eaten here every night.

We ended our first evening in a lovely little cocktail bar Ruby, by the water on Nybrogade 10.

The next morning started leisurely, we headed into Copenhagen K (central old city)

First things first, breakfast at 42 Raw on Pilestræde.

Then we strolled the streets;

Pilestræde has a host of design stores such as Hay, Acne.
Studiestræde (and surrounding area) good for vintage and independent shops.
Kompagnistræde, try Kompa 9 for coffee and The Round Tower observatory with 360 degree views of Copenhagen.
Strøget is one of the longest pedestrian only shopping streets in Europe at 1.1 km, try Illums Bolighus for interiors inspiration.

The 17th century tower and observatory Rundetaarn, or the round tower, is the oldest functioning observatory in Europe.

When Christian IV built the tower, Denmark was quite famous for its astronomical achievements thanks to the astronomer Tycho Brahe. When he died in 1601, the King wished to continue Brahe's research, and thus the round tower came into being.

Climb the spiral walk, 209 ’ish meters will get you to get to top, even though the tower is only 36 meters tall. Pause on the way up, or down, and stand on the floating glass floor hovering over the tower's core. The observatory at the top is encircled by an outdoor platform from which you have a magnificent view of the old city of Copenhagen.

On the way out, swing by the Library Hall which once housed the entire book collection of the university, Hans Christian Anderson used to hang out here and now hosts exhibitions of art, culture, history and science.

LibRARY HALL INTERACTIVE ART. HOW CUTE ARE THESE TWO!

We were heading to Slurp Ramen Joint for dinner, so we put our name down for a seat and then popped for a drink at Kalaset on the corner while we waited.

We couldn’t help but gaze dreamily at the beautiful bikes in the windows of Velorbis.

Then it was time to Slurp some fairly ravishing ramen!

We propped ourselves up on the bar next to a friendly and interesting fellow whose accent I was struggling to pinpoint, it transpired he had Samoan lineage, German family and Danish upbringing. No wonder I couldn’t pick it. It was only after our meals he confessed to owning the joint!

He gave us a heads up on a few local highlights and sent us on our way down the street to wine bar Nr.30, super relaxed atmosphere and a perfect way to end our day together.

The next morning we hired bikes from Copenhagen Bicycles in Nyhavn which unintentionally ended up being where we started every morning, it gave us a central grounding point to set off from and it was easy to find from the subway.

We cruised Amaliehaven, a garden next to the water which leads to Amalienborg Palace - the home of the Danish Royal Family.

In the centre of the octagonal courtyard is a monumental equestrian statue of Amalienborg's founder, King Frederik V. Peering over it are four identical classical palace façades; Christian VII’s Palace (also known as Moltke's Palace, used as guest residence), Frederik VIII’s Palace (also known as Brockdorff’s Palace, home of the Crown Prince family), Christian IX’s Palace (also known as Schack’s Palace, home of the Queen) and Christian VIII’s Palace (also known as Levetzau' Palace, used as guest palace for Prince Joachim and Princess Benedikte). It’s in this building you’ll find Amalienborg Museum.

Amalienborg is famous for its Royal Guard, called Den Kongelige Livgarde. Every day you can experience the changing of the guards, as they march from their barracks in 100 Gothersgade by Rosenborg Castle through the streets of Copenhagen and end up at Amalienborg, where the changing of the guard takes place at 12:00 noon.

Given Captain’s design credentials we were never going to miss the The Danish Museum of Art & Design

“The Chair” the acid test of designers…

So many chairs. Also so much more than chairs.

‘The Lakes’, are a string of large reservoirs outside the old ramparts, which are among the city’s best-loved recreational areas, stretching almost three kilometres from Østerbro to Nørrebro, Frederiksberg and Vesterbro.

We stopped at Bevars, on Ravnsborggade, for the Smørrebrød; danish rye/rugbrød, delicious little works of art, layered with all sorts of goodness!

* we were also recommended Kind of Blue and 20a and Nørrebro Bryghus, for artisan beer, all on the same street, The Barking Dog for similar around the corner, and a few bars on the opposite street, Blågårdsgade, so I don’t think you can go far wrong!

Across the street was this little vintage find;

Fully loaded on Smørrebrød satisfaction we rode up Nørrebrogade to Assistens Cemetery, whose park like grounds hold the final resting place of famous Danes, like fairy tale writer Hans Christian Andersen (visitors pay their respects by leaving pens on his grave) and philosopher Søren Kierkegaard.

Opposite the cemetery, on Nørrebrogade we got drawn into Hot Kotyr which has the most wonderful collection of vintage danish lighting.

Heading back towards were we started, it was a ride around the Kastellet (the Citadel), one of the best preserved fortresses in Northern Europe, pentagon shaped with bastions at its corners. A ring of these bastioned ramparts once encircled Copenhagen.

Today, the buildings inside the Citadel are used as military barracks and offices, including a church and windmill. However, the area is open to the public and a favourite green lung for a jog on the ramparts.

We rode across the drawbridge and could not believe our luck… a classic car rally was taking place!

Head along the Langelinie promenade, before taking a lounger on the wharf, looking over the Royal Pavilions and the House of Finn Juhl beside the water.

A couple of Aperol spritzers later and we rolled back down the waterfront to Nyhavn and rewarded ourselves a waffle with salted caramel ice cream. Dessert first is allowed on holiday, right?

The evening was spent in Høkerboderne, the old Meat Packing District, filled with casual dining places and also a fairly lively clubbing scene, we are no longer interested in a night ‘out, out’ so we went to Mother, ate excellent pizza, then took ourselves off home to our little cabin.

Swing by the Botanical Gardens for a saunter around the old Palm Glasshouse, dated 1874. The narrow, cast-iron spiral stairs leading to the hot & muggy treetop canopy walkway.

Venturing across the river to the area of Nørrebro, København N, a super cool area linked to the central old city via a big sociable bridge over ‘The Lakes’ called Dronning Louises Bro, which then heads up the main strip of ‘Nørrebrogade’.

Locals use Dronning Louises Bro (Queen Louise's Bridge) as a hang out spot; coffee and cake to takeaway and people watch to your hearts content.

We kicked off today with breakfast spread at Moller cafe. Tick an assortment of dishes on the menu and it comes tapas style. Loved it.

To go for a mooch around ‘ere…

Jægersborggade is a boutique shopping street, with;

Vanishing Point, I brought tiny handmade ceramic hanging plant pots.
Grod, if you like porridge or risotto.
Coffee Collective, for dreamy coffee ice cream ‘Kaffe Softice’.
Restaurant Relæ, we wished for one more night so we could book dinner here, next time.
Meyers, for proper Danish cinnamon bun ‘Kanelsnegle’.
Mikkeller & Friends microbrewery around the corner.

Also try;

Elmegade Street, in Nørrebro full of cool Scandi independent retailers.

* Top tip; Finders Keepers look online and see when/if this market is on! Huge horde of arty students sell their clothes and art.

Copenhagen is filled with design inspiration, the clean simple design of Scandinavia abounds amongst the architecture, food, shops. We lost hours browsing the interior design shops for ideas, concepts and moods, they are particularly good at lighting, chairs, linen and, it goes without saying, all things candles!

Inderhavsbroen bridge links Nyhavn to Christianshavn, at the east end of the bridge sits The Bridge Street Kitchen, world-class street food with an organic focus from a collective of stalls. Again, there is a communal relaxed vibe, loungers are freely available to sit and drink next to the harbour.

Spring is in the air as we strolled a few blocks around the waterways in the setting sun, watching the Danish community and tourists mingle in the light and warmth of the new season.

does anyone else want to live here or just me?

DREAMY! do you ever need a house sitter? please call.

We finished our evening at Zeleste in their festoon light filled rear courtyard and more fantastic feasting.

The next morning we sat on a park bench and waited over an hour for a ferry that never came. Given our predilection for islands we thought going to Hvar Island for the day would be a good idea. The ferry company had other ideas, or we were in the wrong place, we’ve never figured it out.

Change of plan; Bicycles again and back towards Nørrebro, to Sidecar for brunch. We had been told this place gets busy but we must have shown up after the rush because we sat straight down to a super breakfast spread.

Christiansborg Palace has an 800 year-long history as Denmark’s centre of power, from here kings and queens have ruled for centuries. Today, the palace is used by HM The Queen for official events such as gala banquets and public audiences. You can go inside, we just watched the horsemen on the plaza. Tivoli Gardens is across the road.

Christiania, a law unto itself.

Christiania, Copenhagen’s hippie “Free Town”, has been a source of controversy since it’s creation in a squatted military area in 1971, an international community and commune of about 850 residents covering 19 acres in the borough of Christianshavn. It’s Cannabis trade was tolerated by Danish authorities for a few decades, had fairly strained relations last decade but since around 2010 the situation has been normalised and Danish law is now enforced in Christiania.

Despite this, and what you’ll read, Pushers street still sells a plethora of hash, weed, pipes etc, we walked the length of it but it wasn’t vibe’in with us so we left them to it and had a look around.

Back across the bridge we stopped by the foodie floor of Magazin Du Nord department store, purchased some fancy Flødeboller, local marshmallow treats, and some danish liquorice and headed home for some time out at our little cabin.

The following is a running photographic commentary of the pastries being devoured, then digesting in the sunshine. You are welcome.

Vesterbrogade; strolled the streets, try;

Værnedamsvej, ‘The Champs-Élysées of Copenhagen’ Cafés, delis, shops.
Sønder Boulevard, shops, Café Dyrehaven.

Pony. We often save a treat for our last night exploring, Pony came recommended.

( * We had also been recommended Höst which looks romantic as ever! )

Our host Nikolai was handsomely viking like, bearded and tattooed, we choose the wine pairing option and it turned out Nikolai was also handsomely hospitable and knew his stuff! Along with his choice of wines, we had memorable beer sourdough with whipped butter, followed by equally exceptional meals.

One of the best trends we regularly experienced in Copenhagen was the quality of the food you can find in relaxed atmospheres! In fact it is the top reason to come here, promise.

Nikolai is from Bornholm Island, which we had never heard of so he told us all about it ( ‘the sunny island’, boutiques, laid back, rural) next time we return to Denmark we shall make time for it. We told him we had tried to go to Hven Island but it hadn’t worked out, so he returned with samples of ‘Spirit of Hven’.